Here is a great way to do binding...
I almost always make continuous cross-grain beinding. There are lots of great informative tutorials available online which are clear to follow.
I do have a few other things to mention that work well for me.
To determine the length of continuous binding needed, measure the quilt top and side, multiple by 2 and add at least 25 inches. This is on the generous side side, but it will ensure that you don't run out!
I cut my binding strips 2.5" wide. I also use cotton batting which does not have a very high loft. Extra width would be required if you are using a high loft batting.
I join the binding strips with a diagonal seam just like this:
By piecing the strips together on the diagonal, you avoid having too much bulk in the one spot along your binding and makes the join less noticeable. Once I have the required length of binding, I fold it in the half along the length, pressing as I go.
I then sew the binding to the top of the quilt by aligning the raw edge of binding with the raw edge of the quilt top, right sides together. I like to leave an approximate 7" tail of quilt biding at the beginning, and then sew with a 1/4" seam allowance. I miter my corners. I use a stitch length of 3.0mm for this and use a walking foot.
I join the ends together with a diagonal seam:
I like to leave quite a large gap between the start and the end of the stitch, say appropromiately a 12" tail.
Overlap the two tail ends smoothly along the quilt edge. Trim back the binding tails so that they overlap by the width of the original binding strip plus 1/4" (in most cases that works out to be a total of 2.75 inches). Be sure to use a ruler and mark the binding for the correct measurement.
Unfold the binding and place the two ends right sides together, perpendicular to each other. Allow the ends to overlap by a generous 1/8". Secure the strips with a pin. Mark the diagnonal line and the stitch along the line (which can be a bit difficult to do with the entire quilt attached).
You can now test to see if the binding fits along the quilt edge.
Trim back the excess fabric, leaving a 1/4" seam allowance. Press open the seam. Finish stitching the rest of the binding on the quilt as before.
Works like a charm every time!
I almost always make continuous cross-grain beinding. There are lots of great informative tutorials available online which are clear to follow.
I do have a few other things to mention that work well for me.
To determine the length of continuous binding needed, measure the quilt top and side, multiple by 2 and add at least 25 inches. This is on the generous side side, but it will ensure that you don't run out!
I cut my binding strips 2.5" wide. I also use cotton batting which does not have a very high loft. Extra width would be required if you are using a high loft batting.
I join the binding strips with a diagonal seam just like this:
By piecing the strips together on the diagonal, you avoid having too much bulk in the one spot along your binding and makes the join less noticeable. Once I have the required length of binding, I fold it in the half along the length, pressing as I go.
I then sew the binding to the top of the quilt by aligning the raw edge of binding with the raw edge of the quilt top, right sides together. I like to leave an approximate 7" tail of quilt biding at the beginning, and then sew with a 1/4" seam allowance. I miter my corners. I use a stitch length of 3.0mm for this and use a walking foot.
I join the ends together with a diagonal seam:
I like to leave quite a large gap between the start and the end of the stitch, say appropromiately a 12" tail.
Overlap the two tail ends smoothly along the quilt edge. Trim back the binding tails so that they overlap by the width of the original binding strip plus 1/4" (in most cases that works out to be a total of 2.75 inches). Be sure to use a ruler and mark the binding for the correct measurement.
Unfold the binding and place the two ends right sides together, perpendicular to each other. Allow the ends to overlap by a generous 1/8". Secure the strips with a pin. Mark the diagnonal line and the stitch along the line (which can be a bit difficult to do with the entire quilt attached).
You can now test to see if the binding fits along the quilt edge.
Trim back the excess fabric, leaving a 1/4" seam allowance. Press open the seam. Finish stitching the rest of the binding on the quilt as before.
Works like a charm every time!
