Understanding Cotton Prices

Article by Jim Salinas, sales associate for Moda Fabrics, edited by Susan Fuquay, originally published in American Quilt Retailer, Vol. 17, Issue 97, January 2011. 

Cotton Plant

If you are wondering what is behind the recent increase in the retail prices of your quilting cottons, here is a brief explaination to help you understand the situation.

Cotton is a commodity and like all commodities prices are increasing.  Most would attribute this primarily to the weakening dollar.  As confidence in the dollar erodes, commodities rise in value.  The dollar has weakened, of course, as our national debt has skyrocketed.  Premium fabric branks are printed in Japan and Korea.  The dollar has weakened by approximately 20 percent to these countries' currencies.  

We are also wrestling with a worldwide cotton shortage.  This shortage is exacerbated by flooding Pakistan, heavy rains in China and hail damage in west Texas.  India has stopped the exportation of cotton altogether, and China has severely restricted its cotton exportation because rising wealth is boosting consumption in their own country.  Labor shortages in China have also contributed to the reduction in available cotton.  Indeed, the entire globe is competing for a finite about of the product.  As is sometimes the case, when commodities spike in price, speculators hold out for better prices, and it appears that is what some greige goods producers may be doing.

Historically, when cotton prices rise dramatically, mills could blend their way to a cheaper product.  The quilting culture simply does not support a blended product, not to mention the fact that polyester (a petroleum derivative) prices are also rising.

Truly we are dealing with a "perfect storm" of problems when it comes to fabric costs.  The quilting industry is also dealing with a significant decrease in the number of print mills that can print the smaller minimums our industry requires, as well as the 16 to 18 screens so frequently used.  There were once approximately 25 printers that could do this type of work; we are down to 10 now!  This puts upward pressure on printing costs.  We still have six mills left in America, but they produce carpet, upholstery, etc.  They may do some high speed rotary printing, but with large minimums and only four to six screens.  They do not do low mimimum flat bed press printing using 18 screens.

As if this weren't enough, the industry is also dealing with two other issues.  As the cost of greige goods (fabric before it is printed) increases, the duty on these goods also increases.  last but not least, UPS shipping costs are increasing 4.9 percent in January 2011!  Wow!  The perfect storm indeed!

Stephanie Dell'olio, president, retail division of Marcus Bros., recently exclaimed, "We have experienced shortages in the past, but this particular set of conditions is like no other we have ever experienced in our 100-year history."

One reason these price hikes are creating so much consternation is that we have experienced so little inflation in the fabric industry over the last 20 years.  My wife, Roxanne, took quilting classes when we lived in Phoenix 20 years ago.  She was paying $6.99 per yard for Hoffman of California prints.  The industry was mauch smaller then, and Hoffman was considered (as it still is today) a premier brand.  Today Hoffman prints are $9.99 per yard in many quilt shops.  This is only a 44 percent increase in 20 years!

In 1990 a loaf of bread was $0.70.  In 2010 a comparable loaf was $2.69.  That's a 284 percent increase.  The average cost of a new car in 1990 was $16,900.  In 2010 the average price of a few car was $27,000.  This is a 65 percent increase.  One pound of ground beef was $0.89 in 1990.  In 2010 a poud of ground beef was $3.29.  This is a 270 percent increase.

You can look at just about anything you purchase and if you compare the price of that item in 1990 to the price today you may just find quilting cotton is still a good value worth the joy it brings you!

Jim Salinas has close to 40 years experience in the fabric industry.  He was a store manager and then district manager with Hancock Fabrics for 17 years and later vice president of marketing for Cloth Worth, director of fabric merchandising for Michael's Arts and Crafts and executive vice president of House of Fabrics.  He has been a sales associate for Moda Fabrics since 1997. 

My Favourite Things

Bernina 440QE

In The Sound of Music, Julie Andrews might have had "Raindrops on roses and whiskers on kittens", but with the all the wonderful things in the store, my favourite things are somewhat different!  To go with my Bernina, which I love, there isn't a foot I don't like.  Collecting Bernina feet is like my shoe collection... always growing and useful!  From the Overlock foot to the Invisible Zipper foot and everything in between because I could not do without my Walking foot, there's a Bernina foot for every application I could ever want. 

Olfa Frosted Square Ruler

Together with my Bernina feet collection, I have a lot of rulers, but not just any rulers.  I discovered the Olfa Frosted rulers about 5 years ago.  What a revelation!  I could cut without the ruler slipping!  Needless to say, I have all the sizes imaginable.  The ones that I really like are the 6" x 12" and the 4.5" square.  

Add-a-Quarter Ruler

While I'm on the topic of rulers, the June Taylor Shape ruler is easy to use and fantastic since it helps you cut multiple quilting shapes in perfect 1/2" increments quickly and accurately.  There is also one that will cut in 1/4" increments.  Fantastic!  The Add-a-Quarter Ruler is also great... I use it mainly for paper piecing; it really makes paper piecing that much easier.  Who knew rulers could be so much fun?  

Gypsy Gripper
(small, medium and large)

The Gypsy Gripper Handle is the icing on the cake, when it comes to safety.  You just place the gripper on the ruler, and there is no more danger for your fingers.  How great is that!!!

Clover Seam Ripper

When I'm quilting, I'll admit that things don't always go my way.  For that reason, I have to say the Clover Seam Ripper has come to my aid.  It's easy to use, ergonomic, and oh so sharp!  Does the job with minimum fuss every time.  

Digital Velocity Iron

I also really like my Velocity Iron.  Coming from someone who really doesn't like the word "iron" at all, that's saying quite something.  The iron is heavy; it steams when I want it to steam, and it just makes ironing easier and faster, which are two words that I do appreciate when talking about ironing.

Martelli Zip Clip

Miriam introduced me to the the Martelli Zip Clip.  WOW!!!  How come I didn't have that tool before?!?  The Zip Clip allows me to do binding without pinning or using anything else.  It's the ultimate binding tool; all you have to do is push the lever and the clip does the rest.


I love gadgets.  For me, they beat "Brown paper packages tied up with string" any day of the week!

The Warm Company

Since its inception, The Warm Company has been dedicated to manufacturing innovative products that make sewing and quilting easier and more enjoyable.  Some of their well-known products are Warm & Natural, Insul-Bright as well as Steam-a-Seam and Steam-a-Seam 2, just to name a few.

I love innovative produce!  Gadgets and tools can save you from untold frustration.  Steam-a-Seam adds an extra element of flexibility when you are creating, which allows you to change your mind at any time.  Nothing is permanent until pressed with an iron.  If you change your mind about the applique fabric you are using, you can simply peel off the Steam-a-Seam and stick it to new fabric!

There are two types of Steam-a-Seam products available: the original and 2, which brings up with question: "sticky back" or "double stick".  The bond is the same, but depending on your project, you may prefer one over the other.

The original Steam-a-Steam ("sticky back") has the pressure sensitive adhesive on one side only, which allows for a temporary hold to the applique material.  It moves freely on the second material, which allows you to reposition your pieces until pressed with an iron for a permanent bond.  Once fused, the bond is the same as Steam-a-Seam 2.

Steam-a-Seam 2 ("double stick") has the pressure sensitive adhesive on both sides which allows for a temporary hold on both the applique material and the background material.  This gives you the ability to hold your project vertically and have the pieces stay in place, which still being repositionable, until fused with an iron.  Before fusing, tack your project to a wall or, if it is a garment, try it on.  You'll be able to make sure the pieces are exactly where you want them to be... or make any adjustments you want.  

There's nothing like it! 

Canadian Thanksgiving

Did you know?

The history of Thanksgiving in Canada goes back to Martin Frobisher, the explorer, who had been searching for the northern passage to the Pacific Ocean.  Frobisher had safely returned from an expedition and in 1578, to commemorate this safe homecoming, he held a formal ceremony in Newfoundland to give thanks for surviving the long journey.  This feast was one of the first Thanksgiving celebrations by Europeans in North America.

At the same time, French settlers, having crossed the Atlantic and arrived in Canada with Samuel de Champlain in 1604, also held feasts of thanks.  They formed The Order of Good Cheer. 

After the Seven Years' War ended in 1763 and New France became part of British North America, the citizens of Halifax held a special day of Thanksgiving.  In 1799, Thanksgiving was observed, but it was still not yet held annually.  After the American Revolution, American Loyalists came to Canada and brought the customs and practices of the American Thanksgiving with them.  The first Thanksgiving observed after the Canadian Confederation was established was on April 5,  1872 to celebrate the recovery of the Princes of Wales (later King Edward VII) from a serious illness.

Starting in 1879, Thanksgiving Day was observed yearly, but the date was flexible.  The theme of Thanksgiving also changed annually to reflect an important event to be thankful for.  In its early years, Thanksgiving was often celebrated for an abundant harvest, which is the tradition that we are familiar with today. 

After World War I, both Armistice Day and Thanksgiving were celebrated on the Monday in the week of November 11th.  In 1931, the two days were separated as holidays and Armistice Day was formally renamed Remembrance Day.

There you have it!  The quick Canadian version of how Thanksgiving came to be.

Have a happy and safe Thanksgiving weekend!!

Getting Hooked!

Antique Primitive Red Rug

Rug hooking has a very long history.  In North America, rug hooking has its roots as original folk art.  Once a craft utilized to cover the drafty floors of primitive settlers' homes, it is now a fine art practiced by talented and skilled artists.  In its earliest years, rug hooking was a craft of poverty, using strips of used material, among the first examples of recycling.  In the past few decades, rug hooking has reached new heights as a fine art form, and modern rug hooking is often described as painting with wool.

Three Churches of Mahone Bay with Gazebo
Hooked by Janice Daniels
Design by Encompassing Designs

The mother of modern rug hooking is Pearl McGown.  In the 1930s, she popularized guidelines for rug hooking, formalized its study and established the modern preference for using only cut wool strips in hooked rugs.  Her vision of rug hooking and teaching grew into a family business and then beyond as she was determined that rug hooking not become a lost art.

I Have My Eye on You
Designed and Hooked by Christine Gibson

Recently, hookers have followed quilters in exploring new materials and developing techniques.  This experimentation, combined with knowledge of the past, has allowed rug hooking to evolve and grow.  Rug hooking today falls into two genres, primarily based upon the width of the wool strips used to create a rug: fine and primitive hooking.  Generally speaking, fine hooking uses very small strips of wool.  Designs of the fine-hooking genre use more fine shading, accomplished by over dyeing wool in gradated colour swatches.  On the other end of the spectrum, primitive (or wide-cut) hooking uses wider strips of wool (up to a 1/2 inch wide).  The wide-cut hooking accomplishes shading and highlights using textures in wool, such as plaids, checks and herringbones. Wide-cut designs are generally less detailed and tend to mimic rugs of the past (pre-McGown designs).

Patrick & Logan Summer 2009
Hooked by Trish Johnson

A big Canadian connection to hooking is Loretta Bluher-Moore who stumbled upon rug hooking by chance.  On impulse, Lorette  purchased a rug hooking kit, which got her started down on a path to artistic fulfillment.  She attended rug hooking class in Montreal, where she credits her teacher with instructing her how to dye wool.  Loretta loves creating exactly the right hues to execute her original designs.  Of colour, she says "when you can control the colours, it opens up so many possibilities!"

Robertson Glacier
Designed & Hooked by Betty Calvert

Within a few years of taking up hooking, Loretta was invited to exhibit and demonstrate traditional rug hooking at a show in Roxham, Quebec.  She sold dyed wool and was inundated by people asking for lessons and kits, so Loretta created her first rug hooking kit.

Irises

In addition to creating unique pieces to sell and for herself, Loretta has developed a number of kits for hooked wall hangings, seat covers, runners, rugs and purses.  She also enjoys the artistic challenge of designing specialty items on commission as well as teaching.  Loretta was featured in a fall issue of A Needle Pulling Thread, a Canadian fibre arts magazine, along with one of her traditional hooked patterns.

Celtic Flow

The Running Stitch is excited that it will start retailing wool and rug hooking kits in the near future!

Velocity Iron

No one likes ironing.  Let's be honest.  It's not exactly fun, but more something that has to be endured.  But... let me tell you: with the Velocity iron, it's actually a piece of cake!  Surprising, I know, but the result means you can get on to better parts of life, like quilting!  No spit, no drip, no muss, no fuss!  And it is an eco-intelligent product to boot, saving on water and energy.  I can't believe that I'm saying this about an iron, but it's a wonderful tool, completely unlike the traditional iron.  

Its list of fantastic features makes ironing less painful.  The Velocity iron has few holes, which mean better steam, and the bottom line is that ironing goes faster.  When it comes to ironing, I like fast.  It's ergonomic, so it even works with you.

You know it's a fantastic product when The Oprah Magazine selects the new Velocity V50 iron to be part of the esteemed O List - Makeover Edition.  The Velocity is featured on page 92 of the September 201 issue as one of the several select items that Oprah and her team thinks are better than ever!  

When you add Mary Ellen's Best Press to your ironing regime, combined with the Velocity, life gets even better and you almost don't realize that you're ironing!

Fibrefest 2010 in Almonte

Post Office designed
by Thomas Fuller

Almonte is notable for being the boyhood home of Dr. James Naismith, the inventor of basketball, but the village's history reaches further back than that.

In a region where the early settlers' Irish, English, and Scottish origins are prominent in the names of the communities they founded -- Lanark, Corkery, Glen Isle, and Scotch Corners to name a few -- it is interesting that Almonte's namesake is Mexican.

Burnside House

The combination of Canadian Loyalists and American Revolutionaries led to tensions between the two countries.  The War of 1812 did nothing to help the situation, nor did US military incursions into Mexico during the 1840s.  The border skirmishes between Mexico and the US during this time were seen by Mexicans as a land-grab, and this worried Canadians that the American Republic was ready and willing to use force against its neighbours to achieve its territorial goals.

Mill Street (c. 1910)

At this time, Mexican General Almonte was primarily a diplomat as well as the ambassador to the US.  He was recalled to Mexico, and served in the field against the invading US forces.  He was taken prisoner, later released, and died in 1869, lauded by the English press at the time as "a kindly and accomplished gentleman".  In the political climate of the day, this lead the British citizens agreeing to rename the village to its present-day name.

Rosamond Woolen Co.

In 1819, David Shepherd obtained a Crown grant of land, and he began construction of a grist mill and sawmill in the area that would later be named Almonte.  Sadly, fire destroyed the sawmill the following year, and he gave up the entire project.  The Crown re-granted the land to Daniel Shipman, who successfully developed the grist and sawmills, among numerous other ventures.  By 1870, Almonte boasted 30 stores and nearly 40 other businesses.  Chief among these were the textile mills that gave Almonte its reputations as the "Manchester of North America".

North Lanark Agriculture Hall
(c. 1910)

The rapid expansion of the nation rail system, combined with the emergence of an industrialized middle-class spurred the growth of Almonte's textile industry.  By the turn of the century, there were seven woolen mills in operation.  However, by the 1950s, competition from foreign producers had shut the flow of textiles from Almonte down to a trickle, and the mills closed or were converted to other uses.  The massive mansions (formerly belonging to mill owners and business men) lends to Almonte's historical past and demonstrates how lucrative and important the textiles industry was.  The village has incredible 19th century architecture.

The Running Stitch Kiosk

Almonte was the perfect location for Fibrefest 2010 which was held at the Mississippi Valley Textile Museum (MVTM) and the North Lanark Agriculture Hall.  MVTM is located in the annex of the former Rosamond Woolen Company.  Constructed in 1867, this National Historic Site of Canada now houses static and working displays of textile equipment, focusing on the region's heritage, culture, and the role of the textile industry in the development of Canada. 

The Running Stitch Kiosk

Fibrefest itself was quite the event.  There were demonstrations and textile art exhibitions of spinning, weaving, lacemaking, and smocking just to name a few.  William Hodge was the featured artist.  There were also a wide range of vendors (including The Running Stitch!) in attendance, and it made for a great weekend.